A designer can sometimes be known more for the details than the big sweeps. I have begun to think that Heni should be one of these designers. Which is not to say that he is not capable of drama and spectacle — we have seen this before — but last night his collection was sweet, fun, soft, cheeky and very feminine. It was tasteful and detailed. It was full of subtle complexity rather than angst. It was flirty rather than full-on sexy. It was commercial rather than high drama. In other words it charmed me.
The small details took me home. The nautical tie, where once it was a bow. The suspender corset in homage to Galliano — interwoven rather than standing out. The soft layers of chiffon tipping a nod to vintage but in a modern context. The softest denim, the freshest ticking, the naughty colonial sailor girl of the 40s moved into the new century.
This collection was not shiny or sparking or tight or over-the-top. This collection was just simple and sweet. And sometimes that is exactly what you need.